Relatively new to modding glock triggers. Ordered just a double diamond connector and competition spring set from TGS (which will ship whenever the crown in CA wills it, apparently). Any pitfalls to watch out for with these? I'm just looking for less creep and a lighter pull. Don't want to turn my sidearm into a sideshow.
I don't go crazy with glock triggers I don't polish or shave anything and I try to stick with a factory 3.5 connector I've seen glocks with aftermarket trigger stuff so some weird things after they had some rounds on them
Yea I'm generally wary of aftermarket triggers. Put one in my rifle and it was great...right up until it wasn't. Ended up having to finish a training day manually resetting the thing after every shot.
@BugsyBaldwin - Don't get wrapped up in the laser craze, it is a Hollywood gimmick. You will waste valuable life saving micro-seconds looking for a little red light in shitty conditions instead of focusing on the threat theatre. By the time you acquire where your beam is you have two in your chest and one in your head.
@[MS] Foxtrot795 - I just can't wrap my head around any red dot lasting a long time riding a slide back and forth so violently. That kind of abrupt movement can't bode well for the red Dot's longevity.
@[VA] JediComms from my understanding, they’re designed to hold zero even under violent hits like rapid fire situations as long as it’s a decent brand like Vortex or Holosun. I almost bought a Vortex Venom for my Shield, but talked myself out of it so I could finish my AR
@[MS] Foxtrot795 - The design might be good on paper but until they're been run hard over an extended period of time, I dunno. Take for example the anti-dive forks on Muscle and Sportbikes from the early 80s. Looking at the engineering diagrams and such, they worked great on paper. When they actually hit the streets none of them made a different and the manufacturers abandoned the effort after only a few model years.
Right. I can definitely see that side of the things. I do TONS of research and read reviews before I buy things like that though. If there’s not a torture test video on it, I won’t even look at it twice.
That’s like my truck. Why on EARTH GM went away from rack and pinions and did idler and pitman arms in the OBS trucks I’ll never understand. Good idea on paper, horrible from a practical standpoint.
That’s how mine was. I bought it as a basic rifle and just built off the bones of it. I’ve always been a fan of the M&P series and been a S&W guy. I watched a meltdown video from Iraqveteran8888 on the M&P-15 and it made it to 820 rounds of full auto fire, handguard on fire, melting off and everything, and the only reason it stopped is the gas tube eroded, but could still be fired like a bolt action. Between that and the price, I was sold on it.
@[VA] JediComms it's extremely accurate for being a combat rifle designed for combat at 300 yards I can put one on top of the other at 100 yards with Iron sights
@[MS] Foxtrot795 - 7.62NATO.......go with the most commonly used NATO cartridge in the .30 calibre category. In a SHTF scenario you have better odds of finding it.
@[VA] JediComms that was my second option. Originally I was going to go with 6.5 creedmoor, but decided against it due to price per round and availability in a SHTF situation
@[MS] Foxtrot795 - Fun guns can be in exotic calibres but if you plan to run and gun one should stick with .22lr, 9mm, 5.56NATO, 7.62NATO, 7.62AK, 7.62Mosin, and 12GA. These are by far the most widely used/available.
I would 100% get the TP9 over the VP9. The quality is great, haven't had a single damn issue. Feeds great, and the trigger is hands down the best stock striker fire trigger I've ever used.