[LA] Zoomer Medi/k/
(id: 687142537353232434)
14 May 2020 17:32
miliradians are superior
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miliradians are superior
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thought Iโd let everyone know
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Gettingnl tired of my shit falling appart when i need it, need suggestions for a decent pair of every day shoes or boots that will last more than a few months before the tread seperates from the rest of the shoe
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I like the Merrill 8"... wears like a sneaker, tough like a boot
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Ive got Danner boots, and hiking boots that last, Merrill also lasts...
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I try and catch 140-200 boots on sale, buy 2 pairs
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I've got a pair of redwing blacksmith boots. They're not made for hiking but work well enough. The only downside seems to be they're a bit slick on smooth floors. Otherwise they're made to last years and years. Plenty of other good boots out there though, I'd suggest watching some videos from Carl Murawski. They review a lot of boots and other clothes that are made to last for life.
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Just tired of dropping 80$ ever coupple of months
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Would much rather have a hiking type shoe than a boot but whatever will last im down for
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Has anyone ever heard of Hazard 4 or their products
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Yeah an $80 pair of boots won't last you. Hell a $150 pair of boots might last a year or two of regular walking on pavement
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I wear red wings for work, only thi g I don't kill in 6 months
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You don't really get into those 8-10 year boots until you hit 300 or more. Sometimes on sale
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granted if they're for work they probably won't even last that long, depending on what you do
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I'm a heavy industrial mechanic/electrician... I only get 3 years out of a pair of RW
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There's only so much stress that leather and rubber can take after all
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But yeah I'd definitely suggest looking at Carl Murawski's youtube channel. They've been in construction for a long time and know a good bit about clothes that last, and practical fashion
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But still worth the $350
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I work in IT at a grain mill, so I'm in a lot of different environments from an office to mills full of giant industrial machinery, so I found a happy balance with the redwing heritage blacksmith boot. It's not a workboot, but still durable enough to take life. At least so far, haven't had them too long.
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Nice, I switched a while ago, on my third pair of the loggers... 3 years on each, and honestly the last time I just got a new pair because it had been 3 years
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But I work in a chemical manufacturing facility, so I have to have steel toe, slip resistant, and electrical rated
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I've had mine for about 3 weeks now and they're just starting to break in, walking around 8 miles a day. Still not the most comfortable thing but I've been told that because of the cork midsole and stiff leather, they'd be horrible at first and end up super comfortable
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Yeah, all redwings are like that
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Most good boots with natural materials from what I hear
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I've heard it said that a bad shoe will be comfortable to start and uncomfortable after time, while a good shoe is uncomfortable to start but gets more comfortable over time. Then you've got custom stuff which is just always comfortable
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but I'm not paying a thousand dollars for a pair of boots at my salary lol
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdfxmfXWSBQ
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The Merrill 8" I got are comfortable all the way, had them a while now
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I wear 5.11 boots. I like them, and they last a while. I have two pairs
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5.11 makes decent stuff. I tried their pants and wore them out in two months though
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a couple different ones. Right now I'm on a pair of duluth pants and they're holding up decently
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I've never heard anything good about 5.11
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I wear Blaklader x1600 pants for work, the only thing I can't destroy easily... blew out the Duluth fire hose pants in less than a year
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I like the built in kneepad pockets on the x1600's though, I rock some heavy duty waffle style hard rubber with air in each square.
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I blew out the firehose pants pretty quickly, but I wanted to try their jeans. So far they seem to be pretty good quality, and a bit better built than the firehose pants
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I wanna say the firehose pants lasted me 4 months, which is longer than usual
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it's always the crotch that goes
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@EDDSkitz gonna be coming from Old hampshire ๐ England
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Nice. Welcome to the land of the slightly less oppressed ๐
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ha
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yeah well ive got to get there first
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heres hoping all my meme-ry hasnt put me on too many watch lists
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Nah, watch lists are a way of life here.... Obama isn't president anymore
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And unlike literally every other country in the world, we let everyone in for the most part.
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citizenship as long as you can afford the legal fees and wait times from what I hear
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This may be a dumb question but would either of these be a problem running it without a suppressor
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either of what?
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Maybe the buffer. Your best bet is to get an adjustable gas block
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running most suppressors will push more gas back into the receiver. The charging handle is made to direct it away from your face so it doesn't go straight up your nose, which is uncomfortable. The buffer is probably just heavier to take the increased backpressure
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I'd probably suggest just going with a regular buffer, adjustable gas block, and suppressor optimized charging handle. Tune the gas block to work without the suppressor, so it'll cycle with or without it
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Fair enough, I'd probably just be better off building it then. It's just a 3rd option bc I found a SOLGW m4 76 for a good price, and 2 BCM that I'm looking at
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IMO building to spec is always better... most of those companies offer parts and some are better than others at different things.
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I feel like I don't know enough about AR's to build one correctly yet
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And I'm not looking for anything crazy just a solid rifle for close to mid range
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That's why you build one, you learn everything you need to know
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They are basic as fuck
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I believe you, I just learn a little differently. I'm better at having something complete in my hands and gutting it to learn. Plus my only experience with AR's is with a very clumsy rifle so I'm not certain on which parts and tolerances I prefer
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So long as it's actually certified as mil-spec it should be reliable. But some companies go above that mark.
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You do need a couple tools to assemble one so if you're not comfortable, I'd suggest getting a complete upper with bcg and charging handle, and a complete lower
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Agreed, if you don't have experience with ARs, get an already built upper and lower.
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Firearms have an excise tax, but when it comes to parts, the lower is the only thing that makes something a firearm, so you pay less taxes if you get the lower separately
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Yeah im looking into getting a complete lower and upper separately
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Is it normal for my BCG to have a small gap? Or is this not seated correctly?
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Also as someone who has never built a gun beforehand...it isn't really that hard. Just have your work looked over by someone reputable before bringing to the range/firing it
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It is normal
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I'd suggest getting some headspace gauges anyway just to make sure whenever you're building a rifle. You won't be able to see the difference but if it's off, you might feel it lol
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It seems I can't breakdown without doing the pivot pin first, I think it's working against the buffer
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Something must be off, or it isn't seating properly. I should be able to break it apart more easily, from the back pin first I'm thinking right?
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Yeah, back pin first is the standard procedure
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It's pretty uncommon to even touch the front pin
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Yeah, I rarely bother to touch it. I clean it while it's hinged.
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Only thing I can think of off the top of my head is that the bolt carrier could be resting too far back, blocking the rifle at the receiver extension, but idk
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Hm. I'm afraid to rack the bolt until then, may send pics as I try to take it back apart
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Yeah, try bumping the push-thingy. I forgot the name, lol
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Forward assist
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And if that doesn't work, literally rack it back and release, allow it to slam into battery
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Ahh yes, the assist, lol
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I'm building an AR this weekend and don't remember part names XD
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*when your gun jams because you bought an Anderson so you smash the forward assist until the brass is permanently deformed into the chamber*
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Nothing moves if I hit the forward assist
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Lol I don't have anything loaded
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Dummy rounds come Sunday
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Don't be a bitch my boy. It's a gun, not a toy.
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Tear that shit apart until you fix it.
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That's what I'm doing
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Trying to use the marketplace of ideas to gather professional consensus. Is my gas block too far back possibly?
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Not likely... your bolt doesn't really seem bad, and they tend to have an area where they rest.
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Definitely disassemble. Look at anything that could interfere with the rear lug. Gas block wouldn't do anything.
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I've had a similar issue before, and it was the hammer getting in the way I think.. Or something. It was something simple I forgot about
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Gonna take it all apart and start over
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Mostly, anyway
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Just a slight overhang
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Even if j crank the buffer back a bit, the bolt catches on the top inner edge of my lower
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I recently ran into a similar situation with my AR pistol and I'm not sure how it happened.
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Ok y'all, sorry if this has been beaten to death already but..BCM vs LWRC. Seen both at about the same price point, hear good about both. What do y'all think?
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My freedom is just a few cm of heat treated aluminum away
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I've heard LWRC is a bit above BCM. But BCM is known for their reliability.
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