I've always kinda been told that for a "field" rifle you should at least go BCM. But lwrc seems to always be mentioned next. Trying to sort out competition rifles from actual working rifles on the higher tier stuff basically to figure out what I want for the next toy purchase.
I've heard good things on LWRC... but every time I hear about working rifles, I hear about BCM. And another rifle I've read good things on, is the Barrett REC7
I've always been curious about the Barrett stuff but I know absolutely no one with any hands on experience with them. Same with KAC and Hodge. Read good stuff but can't find anyone who's ever pulled a trigger
KAC is good stuff, been up and close with then. No idea on Hodge, and I'd like to get a hold of a REC7 because It's like an HK416 that's not 4,000+ hahaha
I would prefer to not pay that either, just saying if there was a rifle that did absolutely everything I wanted short of reaching down and giving me a handjob everytime I shot it, then yeah.
I've been researching it lately and it seems there's a few good options.
Tikka t3x for 700-1000 usd, I suggest the varmint / tactical barrel
Howa 1500 500-1000 usd, don't let the price fool you, it's extremely high quality with sub 0.5moa using quality ammo, and a flat bottom receiver. You can pick up a barreled action for 500 and mount it on a chassis / have it bedded in a stock of your choice for great customization.
Ruger precision rifle - great out of the box though a tad heavy and a bit more expensive. Supposedly have a few minor problems but I haven't read enough about them.
Remington 700 - poor quality these days but so much parts support you can literally have one built without any Remington parts. More expensive than it's worth.
Ruger American - idk anything about it but it exists
Mossberg patriot - also exists
Barrett fieldcraft - very light, though the barrel heats up quickly. Expensive but barrett quality.
Savage has some stuff too, idk much about them.
Some things:
Get a heavy barrel, it's worth it for the accuracy as full size rounds heat up fast.
Pick moa or mrad and get a good scope, it's probably more important than your rifle. Look for stuff with a maximum magnification of around 12 to 18. You won't use anything past 15 for shooting because the mirage is too much to deal with. You can make thousand yard shots plenty easy with a fixed 10x scope and training. (Though i don't recommend fixed for a fighting or hunting rifle)
Once you have your scope and rifle, get a mount that lets you have the scope as close to your rifle as possible without touching it. Don't skimp on the mount, get a good one or your scope is useless.
Don't worry about fancy shit like a kestrel, you don't need it. A good instructor will train you how to make calculations and judge wind by eyesight. You can actually see the wind using a spotting scope, it's pretty wild.
Definitely this ^
If you hand a scout sniper a shitty rifle with a good scope and mount, they can do a ton, but if you hand them some fancy Sako rifle and a shitty walmart scope and mount, there's not all that much they can do
Only component of my rifle I'm concerned about that I couldn't find any info on is the big daddy unlimited BCG; It's full auto profile but couldn't find any reviews on it. Guess I'll be doing a good bit of measuring before shooting it.
Typically if a bcg has been magnetic particle inspected and high pressure tested, and has a properly staked gas key (literally the only bcg I've seen without a properly staked gas key was Anderson) then it's good to go. There's a couple other little things like checking the wear on gas rings and such.
They tried armor that covers the stomach but it's so heavy and cumbersome that it was detrimental. If you didn't die from not being able to move fast enough, heat stroke would get you.
@BigRed1 what's green tip good for
Know fragmentation is low so lethality also drops
Is it better for shooting through things (not plates because I heard theyre not great for that) and at things (objects)
Light cover, like plywood, drywall, sheet metal, car doors, ect., don't really know why you wouldn't just run high velocity 77gr for barrier penetration though
1:7 is bettter for stabilizing heavier rounds. However, it will still throw 55 pretty decently. 1:9 is better for light rounds. And 1:8 is the lovely sweet spot that will throw anything.
Sticky holsters are poorly constructed soft nylon leg ventilators. Never trust one.
Better alternatives are phlster, darkstar gear, jm custom kydex, and keepers concealment.
M&P shield is a good carry gun. Slim but not unpleasant. Best carried iwb around the 4 oclock position. It's not big enough to be comfortably carried in an appendix holster unless you're wearing lower rise pants.
Though you can still carry it appendix, it just likes to flop a little since the barrel isn't long enough to provide good leverage and force the grip into your stomach.
I've been testing out appendix carry with the shield. Kydex holster.
It's not bad when I'm up and about, but is extremely uncomfortable if I sit, unless I pull the holster up pretty high, such that it sits on my stomach rather than at the joint.
There's tons and tons.
Here's one from larue that's surprisingly inexpensive and testing on forums show around 0.5 moa with good 77gr ammo
https://www.larue.com/products/larue-ultimate-ar-15-upper-kit/
That's around $800 for almost everything including a larue trigger and bcg, as well as a trigger chassis for testing different triggers without mounting them in a firearm, even comes with a barrel wrench. You pretty much just need a lower.
Larue is very good. Focused more on precision than anything. Their triggers are a bit below geissele, though their accuracy and precision of machining is into the competition realm. It's not as crazy as other competition brands, but you also wouldn't want to take a heavy Krieger barrel into battle